Tuesday, August 03, 2010

Our First Wedding Anniversary



This weekend we marked our first anniversary by returning to Rosendal, site of our unforgettable celebration last year. We stayed at the same hotel, where all the waiters remembered us, and had yet another delicious venison dinner. We also enjoyed catching up with the hotel's owners, who have made us somewhat famous by putting our picture in their brochure!

After dinner we took a twilight walk (11pm of course, in the long Norwegian summer) up to the medieval church where we were married. As on our wedding day, the clouds hung low in the sky, gripping the mountaintops like troll-bird talons, and the only sounds were the rushing of waterfalls and the soft patter of raindrops.

In the morning we set off early in an attempt to see the Folgefonna glacier, something we didn't have time for last year. We drove for an hour through rainshowers of varying intensity, doubtful that we'd be able to see anything in the socked-in weather, but as luck would have it, the fog lifted just enough for us to spend a magical hour exploring the glacial lake beneath one arm of the mighty glacier, all the while marveling at its ethereal blue ice.

From there we drove further north to another point at which the glacier is visible, and again we defied the rain and our soaking-wet feet to take another fairy-tale walk along a glacial stream that led us through verdant valleys to another steel and turquoise lake. We stopped and lunched underneath a giant rock outcrop by the side of the lake, but the rain refused to abate, so we skipped and sang our way back down the trail to stay warm on the inside, if not in our extremities.

Returning to Haugesund in the evening, we were afforded a final breathtaking glimpse of the glacier in a saddle between two great mountains that careen down into Ã…krafjorden. We also stopped at several waterfalls along the way, one of which I've included here in a short video clip that Anette took. Here's to wonderful memories of a year ago, and to new adventures created in the coming year.



Monday, August 02, 2010

The Oxford University Museum of Natural History





Thanks to a great suggestion from Olivia, who visited Oxford on her trip with the Victorian Society of America, we visited that famous English town for the first time last week. I'll let the pictures from the Natural History Museum do the talking here. Suffice it to say that we could have spent hours staring at the manifold mind-blowing collections, displayed with reverence and decorum in this venerable old building with a thousand moorish arches reminiscent of the mezquita in Cordoba. The birds and butterflies are enough to make anyone want to become a biologist (a 19th century one, at least) and as for the anthropologist (or anthropophagist?) real shrunken heads are also on display, complete with a detailed description of how certain Amazonian tribes removed, heated, shrank, and sewed together again the skins of their victims!!

Steven Sogo, Burundian Musician


Definitely want to let all who are interested know about this great young musician from Burundi. Jake and I saw him perform last week in the basement of a Moroccan restaurant in Savile Row in the heart of London, and we were both very impressed. He's got a great voice, good back-up harmonies, and everyone in the band constantly switches instruments. His music and spirit remind me of Vitali Maembe, who I'm pleased to report is becoming better known in Tanzania. The more the world knows about African artists like these, and the more their voices are heard, the better for us all.

Although it was a shock for us to move to London from Iringa, we're starting to get used to some of the perks, like seeing great concerts and musicals whenever we want to. In the past three weeks we've seen three great African shows - Steven Sogo, Youssou N'Dour and High Priest Safro Manzangi at a Congolese independence celebration. To our delight, both Safro and Steven sang in Swahili - Safro's was an old folk song about Patrice Lumumba that he remembered from his youth, and Steven's song in Swahili was 'Kaza Mwendo,' reminding us to live in harmony with the slow pace of life (maisha ni pole pole). His new album is called 'Il est beau mon pays,' a sentiment to which we can wholeheartedly attest: Burundi is a gorgeous country with wonderful people whose kindness really stood out during our three-week tour of East Africa.

Kaza Mwendo isn't up on YouTube yet, but here's another of his videos, enjoy!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D9Q9UVk8b3g&feature=related